Skin Care and Treatments of Melbourne Dermatology - Effects of Oxidized and Denatured Ascorbic Acid on Skin

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Effects of Oxidized and Denatured Ascorbic Acid on Skin

Application of denatured, oxidized ascorbic acid serums appears to be a relatively and increasingly prevalent practice among individuals sourcing home-made, counterfeit and otherwise unprofessionally supplied or formulated skin care products.

Effects of Oxidized and Denatured Ascorbic Acid on Skin

In light of its characteristic instability, unprofessionally supplied ascorbic acid is any not in use within months of manufacture and not stored and distributed at low temperatures in the absence of light (refer Skinceuticals Antioxidant Storage Notes — Protective/Preservative Refrigeration).

Use of such serums, particularly in their more sensitive sample forms (refer Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Samples and the Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Samples Discussion) would seem to be limited to:

  • individuals unable to afford initial or permanent use of fresh, topically effective ascorbic acid, yet still wishing to acquire it;
  • individuals uneducated or uninterested in ascorbic acid's sensitivity (its stability), yet still wishing to acquire it as a branded, packaged product removed and distinct from its actual, physical properties as an ingredient.

The bulk of skin care manufacturers are clearly well-attuned to satisfying the above scenarios:

Ideologically, therapeutically and dermatologically, the notion of skin care without actual care of the skin as an organ is corrupt because the process involved is one of largely and permanently converting the health of individuals' skins into financial profit for companies who tell their retailers and end-users they are doing exactly the opposite.

Going back some time, the situation surrounding cigarettes and smoking was fundamentally the same. Manufacturers gave the public the idea that mentholated cigarettes were therapeutic (as a periodic treatment for the harshness of "regular" cigarettes), and later that filtered and "light" cigarettes substantially reduced carcinogens without affecting the taste of smoke people had come to love (or more accurately, subconsciously associate with the addictive nicotine added to tobacco in order to make the scam pay).

Obviously, no widely available skin care represents anything approaching the insidious free radical cascade of deliberately sending burnt chemicals straight to the lungs.

Most skin care formulas are carefully tuned to ensure nothing physically measurable or permanent occurs to the skin. Ordinarily, an individual cannot seriously help or harm their skin with skin care products they find at the department store, beauty salon or spa.

Therein lies the problem of applying wishful thinking (beauty therapy, and variations on its themes) to topical ascorbic acid serums.

Oxidized and denatured ascorbic acid is not the anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, collagen-sparking primary antioxidant listed on the label — it's an extract of rotten oranges: a rancid mixture of breakdown products.

Oxidized Ascorbic Acid

Such ascorbic acid is not in a reduced state of potential — not simply less than it was at genesis — it is something more and different.

Cigarettes manufacturers list "tar" alone as an ingredient in their products, but governments often spell out the real-world truth of that tar for the smoker in an additional panel detailing the categories into which 1000s of bio-available chemicals emerge once that tar is oxidized (burnt by heat in the presence of air).

The skin has no choice but to convert oxidized ascorbic acid back into usable ascorbic acid, just as the lungs must somehow process any smoke forced into them.

Degraded topical ascorbic acid engages progressively exhausting glucose-powered metabolic processes within the skin which burn up alpha lipoic acid, glutathione (refer Glutathione: Anti-Aging and Anti-Glycation of Skin), proline and other elements of its synergistic antioxidant system.

Just a few days' obtuse ascorbic acid use is enough to secure permanent damage.

The more biologically viable the skin is to begin with the more reserves it has available to process poor materials and methods to delay readily visible changes.

Clinically, the foolhardy look of oxidized-C users' skins is easier to spot than smoker's skin.

The grey, stressed, retrained appearance is from the opposite pole of correctly employed fresh ascorbic acid, which produces incomparable photoluminescence.

Individuals who insist on using rancid C are not realistic cosmetic patients, they are users treating psychological needs distinct from those of their skin, just as 40% or more of smokers are mentally ill and use cigarettes to forestall feelings of unpleasantness.

I smoke and I'm fine, I like it and I never cough, I can always give up...

Like the idebenone of Priori and Prevage, the outcome is a foregone conclusion.

Oxidized ascorbic acid produces considerable harm from its first application when skin care users insist on forcing habitual and failed skin care theories and practices onto the ingredient.

Oxidized ascorbic acid accelerates skin aging by:

At large, the internet would seem to be a poor and harmful resource on the subject of topical ascorbic acid because it gives the impression that it is always beneficial.

Even when ascorbic acid hasn't oxidized, it may be entirely inappropriate, or less beneficial than other ingredients.

Ascorbic acid (fresh or oxidized) plainly highlights the essential qualities of skin care products and usage outside of dermatology:

  • largely useless;
  • generally neglectful;
  • harmful.

Effective topical antioxidants should not be used outside of medical consultation and direction.

Related Skin Care Information, Products and Expert Discussions

Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate (2008)

Ineffective (and Irritating) Topical Vitamin C

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Samples Discussion

pH Neutral (7.07) Ascorbic Acid Alone/Primarily Fails Skin

Realizing The Net Increase in Hydration Latent within Glycolic Acid


Ascorbic Acid :

Effects of Oxidized and Denatured Ascorbic Acid on Skin : pH Neutral (7.07) Ascorbic Acid Alone/Primarily Fails Skin : Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate (2008) : Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate — The Primary Antioxidant/Firming Quandry (2007) : Combining Use of Ascorbic Acid with Mineral-Rich Skin Care :


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