Skin Care and Treatments of Melbourne Dermatology - Ascorbyl Palmitate

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Ascorbyl Palmitate

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Saturday, 18 July 2009

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate replaces Ascorbyl Palmitate in N.V. Perricone Products

N.V. Perricone have replaced ascorbyl palmitate with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate — both forms of lipid-soluble "Vitamin C" — also found in Strivectin SD and Strivectin Facial Antioxidant.

Saturday, 18 July 2009

Ascorbyl palmitate is not significantly effective against inhibiting UVB induced skin erythema

This paper assesses the suitability of UVB induced skin erythema measured by reflectance spectrophotometry in humans as a model for differentiating topical efficacy of free radical scavengers. Two different formulations (aqueous gels and O/W emulsions) of each active compound (tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, superoxide dismutase (SOD), glutathione, ascorbyl palmitate) were tested on healthy human volunteers before and after skin exposure to UVB radiation. Skin erythema was monitored by calculating erythema index values from the skin spectral data obtained using a reflectance spectrophotometer. The free radical scavengers tested were not able to inhibit UVB induced skin erythema from both formulations when they were topically applied before UVB irradiation. Applying the free radical scavenger formulations after skin exposure to UVB radiation, glutathione and SOD showed the best ability in inhibiting the induced erythema (percentage inhibition 53.3 and 41.6%, respectively from gels). Tocopherol and tocopherol acetate inhibited UVB skin erythema by 27% while ascorbyl palmitate showed a poor efficacy. For all the active compounds tested, no significant difference was observed comparing the results obtained from gels to those from emulsions. Liposomal gel formulations containing the free radical scavengers which showed the best activity (SOD and glutathione) were prepared and topically applied after skin exposure to UVB radiation. SOD and glutathione liposomal formulations were more effective than the corresponding conventional gels. The proposed model, if validated by further studies, could be useful for differentiating the effectiveness of free radical scavengers in inhibiting photoaging due to long-term sunlight skin exposure.

Reference:

AU: L. MONTENEGRO, F. BONINA, L. RIGANO, S. GIOGILLI, S. SIRIGU

TI: Protective effect evaluation of free radical scavengers on UVB induced human cutaneous erythema by skin reflectance spectrophotometry

SO: International Journal of Cosmetic Science

VL: 17

NO: 3

PG: 91-103

YR: 1995

ON: 1468-2494

PN: 0142-5463

AD: Institute of Pharmaceutical Chemistry, University of Catania, V. le A. Doria 6, 95125 Catania, Italy and ISPE, via Civerchio 4, 20159, Milano, Italy

DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.1995.tb00113.x

Sunday, 26 April 2009

Sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are more stable than ascorbyl palmitate

The stability of ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate in topical formulations was investigated by direct reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography after sample dilution with a suitable buffer — organic solvent mixture. Ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are derivatives of ascorbic acid which differ in hydrolipophilic properties. They are widely used in cosmetic and pharmaceutical preparations. According to the results, ascorbyl esters showed significant differences: sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate are more stable derivatives of vitamin C than ascorbyl palmitate and may be easily used in cosmetic products.

Reference:

AU: A. I. Segall, M. A. Moyano

TI: Stability of vitamin C derivatives in topical formulations containing lipoic acid, vitamins A and E

SO: International Journal of Cosmetic Science

VL: 30

NO: 6

PG: 453-458

YR: 2008

CP: © 2008 The Authors. Journal compilation. © 2008 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the SociÈtÈ FranÁaise de CosmÈtologie

ON: 1468-2494

PN: 0142-5463

AD: Ctedra de Control de Calidad de Medicamentos, Facultad de Farmacia y Bioqumica, Universidad de Buenos Aires, Junn 956, 1113 Buenos Aires, Argentina

DOI: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00473.x

Friday, 27 March 2009

Effectiveness of Ascorbyl Palmitate as an Antioxidant

(Sources: Photochemistry and Photobiology, June 1998, pages 669—675; and Journal of Pharmaceutical and Biomedical Analysis, March 1997, pages 795—801).

Monday, 4 August 2008

Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate (2008)

Although both antioxidants are marketed as firming Vitamin C for skin, ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate should not be considered immediately interchangeable or equivalent.

Ascorbyl palmitate produces different short and long-term effects when compared with ascorbic acid.

Jan Marini C-ESTA contains ascorbyl palmitate in a range of relatively large percentages.

Lesser percentages of ascorbyl palmitate are available in La Prairie C Energy Cellular Serum and other skin care products.

Despite being non-endogenous, clinically the varying percentages of ascorbyl palmitate formulas available rarely provoke irritation.

Some concerns exist regarding the use of ascorbyl palmitate without adequate sun protection.

These concerns are generally absent with ascorbic acid.

Vitamin C as ascorbic acid is available in a large range of products including Skinceuticals Vitamin C Serums, Cellex-C Vitamin C Serums and various other formulas in percentages ranging from approximately 5% to 25%.

Within ideally-formulated serums, percentages of ascorbic acid over approximately 18% are not thought to be optimally absorbed.

Due to the highly reactive nature of the molecule, it is unclear what percentage of Vitamin C remains available to skin in ascorbic acid products in the period post-production and pre-use.

Ascorbic acid skin care product manufacturers may formulate excess concentrations which reduce to more beneficial levels post-production but decline considerably to poor levels on product opening.

While pH neutral ascorbyl palmitate remains stable and functional, only especially acidic ascorbic acid serums remain both useful and reasonably stable.

Oxidized ascorbic acid is often claimed to remain effective, however is deleterious to a greater or lesser extent.

Ascorbic acid serums should be used as soon after production as possible, and certainly before 4 months.

Despite the "cosmeceutical" designation associated with Vitamin C Serums, manufacturers are not bound to provide uniformity across batches.

Refer Skinceuticals Antioxidant Storage Notes — Protective/Preservative Refrigeration and Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Supply & Storage Notes.

Like chirality, concerns regarding stability/effectiveness of both ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate are popularly and ironically misunderstood to the benefit of manufacturers.

In many instances, the benefit is deliberately construed.

Effective ascorbyl palmitate is inherently stable for long periods while no effective ascorbic acid is likely to be inherently and durably stable.

Clinically, low percentages of ascorbic acid can produce disappointing results, however higher and better-performing percentages can be considerably irritating, particularly for men, smokers, individuals with sensitive skin, rosacea or poor general health.

Ascorbic acid can also stimulate acne, although it appears less inclined to do this if combined with ferulic acid.

Neutral ascorbic acid is not an active ingredient.

Combining use of ascorbic acid with especially mineral-rich skin care (for example Phytomer or Gernetic GER-Lift) appears to be pro-oxidant, producing noticeable "greying" of the skin, although not erythema.

Skin care products containing small amounts of minerals may also therefore be contraindicated when used simultaneously with viable ascorbic acid.

Some topical Vitamin C users have attempted to make their own ascorbic acid serums by dissolving ascorbate in destabilizing water and/or glycerin.

Resultant extremely low pH and high concentration have produced permanent and deep skin texture irregularities combined with abnormal exfoliation taking several weeks to resolve.

In a related skin care failure, apparently gentler home-made recipes are safe but like many purported (beauty) therapies are entirely or largely useless for skin.

Additional Reference: Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate — The Primary Antioxidant/Firming Quandry (2007).

Formulas containing ascorbyl palmitate and/or ascorbic acid include:

La Prairie C Energy Cellular Serum with Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate.

La Prairie C Energy Cellular Serum (discontinued) with Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Palmitate.

Cellex-C High Potency Serum with Ascorbic Acid.

Cellex-C High Potency (17.5%) Ascorbic Acid Serum.

Skinceuticals Serum 20 without Ferulic Acid.

Skinceuticals Serum 20 (20%) Ascorbic Acid Serum available with and without Ferulic Acid (without ferulic acid remains available as 15 mL).

Danné Montague-King Direct Delivery Vitamin C Serum.

Danné Montague-King Direct Delivery Vitamin C Serum with Ascorbic Acid and either Ascorbyl Palmitate or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate.

Saturday, 7 June 2008

Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate — The Primary Antioxidant/Firming Quandry (2007)

Ascorbic Acid vs. Ascorbyl Palmitate — The Primary Antioxidant/Firming Quandry (2007)

Few anti-aging skin care options create as much angst and long-term trepidation as the choice between ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate.

The two prevailing forms of Vitamin C are neither technically nor cosmetically equivalent.

Their suitability and effectiveness for individuals wishing to limit unnecessary permanent damage and increase/restore lift and firmness, both in the long and short term, varies considerably from person to person.

Melbourne Dermatology has compiled extensive data from Visia Medical Complexion Analysis and patient feedback in a new monograph discussing current science and cosmetic dermatological practice.

Patient Spectrum, Patient Benefits: Ascorbic Acid vs Ascorbyl Palmitate — Truth and Utility of Dermatological Vitamin Cs is an authoritative and definitive survey and analysis of current topical Vitamin C theory and practice.

The condensed version serves to arbitrate among various skin conditions, types and cosmetic desires, guiding users quickly to the best possible protocol of use and therefore the most beneficial, satisfying and durable result.

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