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MadecassosideThe pentacyclic triterpenoid glycoside Madecassoside is the latest purified isolate of Centella Asiatica with healthy effects against aging skin, scars, stretch marks and psoriasis. Centella Asiatica is a pantropical (umbelliferous) plant with a millennium-long medicinal history, used for over 2000 years in India, as shown in Sanscrit manuscripts and, later, in Ayurvedic medicine. Centella Asiatica appeared relatively late in modern Western medicine, making its entrance in the Codex only in 1884. The first dry extract was not produced until 1941, three years before the triterpenoids were isolated by Pierre Boiteau, who used it for its soothing and healing properties. The beneficial properties of the molecules asiatic and madecassic acid, followed by asiaticoside, were discovered first and marketed from 1959 as TECA and are used today in products such as Skinceuticals Epidermal Repair and IS Clinical Body Complex. Madecassoside was discovered in 1973 but only isolated and purified (at 95%+) in 2003 with advances in separation and purification made possible by new chromatography techniques. A high level of purity is required to guarantee efficacy and skin tolerance. Monday, 17 May 2010 In skin, the major components are collagen type I and collagen type III. Skin aging is inextricably linked with a decrease in type I collagen. Studies dating back to the 1980s indicate that glycosides found in Centella Asiatica such as madecassoside increase collagen synthesis and that combinations of glycosides of Centella Asiatica combined with Vitamin C as ascorbic acid produce greater collagen type I synthesis than either alone. In addition madecassoside reduces the activity of dermal matrix degrading enzymes (MMPs — Matrix MetalloProteinases of type I, 3 and 9) which break down the compounds occurring chiefly as components of connective tissue. Madecassoside, particularly in combination with ascorbic acid, both enhances and protects the turgidity (bounce) of skin. The clinical experience has been that skin care products containing significant concentrations of pure extracts of Centella Asiatica such as madecassoside provide obvious skin firming effects when used for at least six weeks. The effectiveness of skin care products containing trace amounts of Centella Asiatica, and products not containing the isolated glycosides of Centella Asiatica, has either been poor or impossible to judge with any accuracy. Skin care products containing healthy amounts of extracts of Centella Asiatica such as madecassoside can be expected to perform better than the popular implementations of peptides used in skin care. Saturday, 15 August 2009 Madecassoside acts upon different cutaneous mechanisms and can enhance skin healing, regulating the renewal and the differentiation of the epidermal tissues (keratinocytes), optimizing the organisation of the corneous layer and modulating skin inflammation. Madecassoside enhances post procedure healing and improves the outcome of the inflammatory phase of hypertrophic scars and keloids. Madecassoside may also assist the treatment of phlebitis, cellulitis, slow-healing wounds, scars and stretch marks. Tuesday, 23 June 2009 Skin care products containing madecassoside are few. La Roche-Posay Redermic formulas contain madecassoside in combination with Vitamin C as ascorbic acid, a combination which has been shown to be superior to either ingredient alone, however is best not applied at the same time as retinoids. Use of La Roche-Posay Redermic has not been associated with contact sensitivity. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast is a barrier repair product which contains madecassoside in addition to gluconates of copper, zinc and manganese. Dermalogica Super Rich Repair (now discontinued) also contained madecassoside albeit without ascorbic acid and in small concentration. Cellex-C Cellulite Smoothing Complex contains madecassoside as part of its Centella Asiatica content and may help prevent and reduce new stretch marks. Madecassoside is also found in La Roche-Posay Kerium Anti-Hair Loss. Wednesday, 24 June 2009 Incorporating madecassoside into a skin care protocol for aging skin that achieves additional benefits against sagging and wrinkles can be achieved as follows: After the application of any antioxidant serums (optional), apply La Roche-Posay Redermic Eyes and either La Roche-Posay Redermic for Combination Skin or La Roche-Posay Redermic for Dry Skin before the application of sunscreen. Alternatively, use La Roche-Posay Redermic UV in place of any of the Redermic formulas for facial (excluding eye contour) skin and sunscreen. As per AM excluding sunscreen and not at the same time as retinoids. Wednesday, 24 June 2009 Asiatic and madecassic acid and asiaticoside or combinations thereof (for example, TECA) are alternatives to madecassoside. These isolates are mainly found in skin care from IS Clinical and to a lesser extent Skinceuticals. Tuesday, 8 September 2009 Skin aging is marked by a decrease in collagen synthesis and an increase in collagen breakdown effected by metalloproteinases. The net loss in dermal collagen is thought to cause wrinkles. Purified isolates of Centella Asiatica, such as asiaticoside and madecassoside, which have been shown to stimulate collagen production, are incorporated into some anti-aging products with the aim of preventing and reducing wrinkles. Twenty-nine types of collagen have thus far been identified, however Type I and III collagens are the major components of the dermis, where wrinkling changes occur. While both asiaticoside and madecassoside stimulate collagen Type I and III, thus far only madecassoside has been shown to significantly increase collagen III. Skin care products containing asiaticoside and madecassoside such as La Roche-Posay Redermic may be used in addition to retinoids, Vitamin C and sunscreen for greater collagen synthesis. Reference: Bonté F, Dumas M, Chaudagne C, Meybeck A. Ann Pharm Fr. 1995;53(1):38-42. Related Skin Care Information, Products and Expert Discussions |
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