We previously demonstrated that topical antioxidants, when properly formulated to maximize percutaneous absorption, can supplement the antioxidant reservoirs of skin and provide meaningful photoprotection (Lin et al., 2003).
Thus, 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% a-tocopherol formulated at pH lower than 3.5 [as per Skinceuticals C + E] to allow percutaneous absorption provide synergistic photoprotection when topically applied to skin.
We have demonstrated that this combination protects skin fourfold against photo-induced erythema, cellular damage as measured by sunburn cells, and thymine dimer formation.
In an attempt to improve the stability of this antioxidant formulation, we have surveyed a number of low molecular weight, chemically pure coantioxidants.
Ferulic acid at a concentration of 0.5% provided the best combination of stability and cosmetic elegance. Ferulic acid is a ubiquitous plant antioxidant. (Figure 1) (Graf, 1992; Kikuzaki et al., 2002).
It is important in plant cell wall and lignin synthesis.
Although this compound is found only in plants, it has characteristics that may provide useful antioxidant protection for skin. It has solubility in both hydrophilic and lipophilic environments.
Its phenolic nucleus and extended side chain conjugation allows it to readily form a resonance stabilized phenoxy radical which accounts for its strong radical-scavenging effects.
In addition, it absorbs ultraviolet light initiating phenoxy radical formation leading to cis-trans isomerization.
The phenoxy radical can participate in free radical scavenging (Graf, 1992).
In this study, we demonstrate that 0.5% ferulic acid improves the chemical stability of a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid and 1% a-tocopherol.
In addition, topical application to skin of the ferulic acid stabilized formulation markedly increases photoprotection against solar-simulated radiation.