Skin Care and Treatments of Melbourne Dermatology - Deep Wrinkles

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Deep Wrinkles

Deep Wrinkles

Friday, 12 February 2010

La Roche-Posay — Aging Skin Video: Deep Wrinkles, Loss of Firmness


The pathogenesis of skin aging is well defined.

It is characterized by a decrease in collagen synthesis and an increase in collagen breakdown, mediated by metalloproteinases (Arch. Dermatol. 138[11]:1462-70, 2002).

This net loss in dermal collagen is believed to cause wrinkling.

Biologic factors that stimulate collagen production in wound healing might provide similar benefits for aging skin.

Accordingly, growth factors, peptide fragments, and other biologically active molecules are being incorporated into antiaging cosmeceuticals.

Monday, 16 January 2012

IS Clinical Youth Complex

IS Clinical Youth Complex

IS Clinical Youth Complex is a mildly acidic day and/or nighttime antioxidant and moisturizing serum with a profound and weightless oil-free hydrating effect and a moderate skin-resurfacing and firming effect.


IS Clinical Youth Complex rapidly smoothes and softens the skin with a unparalleled concentration of both hyaluronic acid and sodium hyaluronate in combination with glycerin, twenty times more concentrated than even Cellex-C Hydra B Complex and Skinceuticals Hydrating B5 Gel. The product's moisturizing effect is sufficient to dramatically reduce the appearance of deeper wrinkles within an hour of the first application.

A combination of alpha hydroxy acids similar or identical to that found in Skinceuticals Intense Line Defense (glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric and malic totaling 12%) helps refine skin texture, further hydration, stimulate tone and reduce the appearance of visibly open pores.

Titrated extracts of Centella asiatica help stimulate the production of collagen and reduce skin sensitivity. IS Clinical Youth Complex contains all three beneficial fractions of Centella asiatica: asiatic acid, madecassoside (common to La Roche-Posay Redermic) and asiaticoside (common to Skinceuticals Eye Cream, Skinceuticals Skin Firming Cream and Skinceuticals Epidermal Repair).

Madecassoside reduces the activity of dermal matrix degrading enzymes (MMPs — Matrix Metalloproteinases of type I, 3 and 9) which break down the compounds occurring chiefly as components of connective tissue. Accordingly, madecassoside is used in products intended to volumize lips, help prevent hair loss and stretch marks.

IS Clinical Youth Complex also contains soy isoflavones to further help support the production of collagen and hyaluronate and provide treatment of very mild hyperpigmentation.

The product's antioxidant effects stem from its tartaric, citric and malic acids in addition to blueberry extract, which has demonstrated protection against glycation end products and is found in a number of other IS Clinical products, Obagi Elastiderm, M Lab and Skinceuticals AGE Interrupter and AGE Eye Complex.

The majority of this product's effects are due to its superior moisturizing ability for dehydrated skin (skin lacking water rather than oil). Skin lacking adequate natural oils will do better with alternative products. Long term effects of ongoing use are more modest and further improvement can be made by modification to use.

IS Clinical Youth Complex is applied AM and/or PM in place of a moisturizing product (if using other IS Clinical products, apply in place of IS Clinical Firming Complex or Moisturizing Complex) . Apply any antioxidant immediately before IS Clinical Youth Complex. Ideally, leave the product to act for 5-10 minutes before applying sunscreen. This product should not be applied at the same time as retinoids or other prescription products.


Wednesday, 19 October 2016 — The preferred regular home treatment for visibly open pores is now available online. Visit the page for MD Rx Melbourne Dermatology Open Pores Overnight Solution for information.


Friday, 12 February 2010

Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment with Kinetin and Zeatin

Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide (Intensive Treatment with Kinetin and Zeatin) replaces Kinerase Pro+ C6 Peptide Intensive with the most recent Vitamin C derivative tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in place of the original's sodium ascorbyl phosphate, both with superior stability to ascorbyl palmitate.


Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive Treatment with Kinetin and Zeatin is an antioxidant and hydrating serum for daytime use underneath moisturizer and/or sunscreen.

Contains appreciable quantities of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, green tea polyphenols and beta glucan (sodium carboxymethyl beta-glucan) to help provide photoprotection, encourage the production and protection of collagen and diminish skin inflammation and sensitivity.

As per the majority of Kinerase Pro+ Products, Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive contains the antioxidant kinetin (a plant-based extract found in the blue anemone flower and the trade name for N6-furfuryladenine available in other products from Valeant Pharmaceuticals) and zeatin (a plant hormone — derived from the purine adenine — reported to have anti-aging effects on human skin fibroblasts.

Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive also contains the "neuropeptide" Octapeptide-3 (in place of Pro+ C6 and Regular Kinerase Extreme Lift Face's Hexapeptide-3), also known as "SNAP-8" which is touted as capable of reducing deep wrinkles (caused by repetitive facial movements) by up to one third.

Known effective moisturizers suitable for normal to dry skin included are sweet almond oil, triglycerides, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, panthenol, retinyl palmitate (Vitamin A derivative) and tocopherol acetate (Vitamin E derivative), although inadequate in this serum for extremely dry skin and xerosis.

Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and uneven skin tone, and enhances skin barrier function, in patients with normal to dry, sensitive skin including those with rosacea, over a period of one month or longer, in conjunction with other suitable skin care.

Patients with less dry and less consistently sensitive skin can do better with other options.

The primary ingredients in Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive (excluding kinetin and zeatin) available in products formulated for normal to dry sensitive skin are also available in SkinMedica TNS Essential Serum and Replenix Serum CF.

Kinerase Pro+ C8 Peptide Intensive is applied to clean skin in the morning, after a cleanser such as Kinerase Pro+ Skin Smoothing Cleanser, alone or in conjunction with Kinerase Pro+ Advanced Repair Serum, an additional option for use around the eyes, lips and any deeper wrinkles.

Ideally after allowing a few minutes for absorption, a Kinerase Pro+ Moisturizer or other suitable product may then be applied if necessary followed by sunscreen.

The Kinerase Pro+ Collection includes Kinerase Pro+ Therapy Daily Defense Lotion SPF 30 and Cream SPF 30 which are impeccably formulated for finely-textured or newly resurfaced sensitive dehydrated skins however may not be affordable for routine use or tolerated in case of acne or rosacea. Alternatives are Elta MD UV Daily SPF 40, Nia 24 SPF 30 and SkinMedica SPF 30.

Friday, 12 February 2010

Alyria Intense Wrinkle Correction

Alyria Intense Wrinkle Correction

Alyria Intense Wrinkle Correction is formulated with a proprietary anti-aging blend of high performance ingredients including 5% Matrixyl and 0.1% Retinol to significantly reduce wrinkles.

Regular use of Alyria Intense Wrinkle Correction around the eye contour, face and neck has been proven to fill deep wrinkles, rebuild skin and provide brighter, firmer and smoother skin.

Alyria Intense Wrinkle Correction produces rapid cosmetic improvement and long-term anti-aging effects with regular use.

Please refer the notes on Erythema from Retinoids prior to use.

Friday, 12 February 2010

Loss of Elastic Fibers Causes Skin Wrinkles (in Sun-Damaged Human Skin)

Loss of Elastic Fibers Causes Skin Wrinkles (in Sun-Damaged Human Skin) — Healthy  Loss of Elastic Fibers Causes Skin Wrinkles (in Sun-Damaged Human Skin) — Typical

Image: Mature Skin Analysis. For a video illustration, see La Roche Posay — Aging Skin Video: Deep Wrinkles, Loss of Firmness.


Results from the Journal of Dermatological Science indicate that a loss of skin's elastin is a fundamental cause of wrinkles and that retinol physically reverses this aging change by restoring the same lost and damaged elastin required for the absence of wrinkles.

Skin's elastin is primarily destroyed by visible and invisible daylight, and possibly by computer screen radiation, in a process known as photoaging.

Accordingly, you can progressively reverse existing wrinkled damage and prevent future wrinkling changes to skin by implementing ideal photoprotection and retinol together.

It is important to remember that retinoids are not a sole answer to aging skin's needs and that they may cause dermatitis, disrupt healthy barrier function to lessen epidermal attractiveness and are photosensitizing in the absence of ideal skin care factors.

Do not implement retinol on its own, particularly in the absence of ideal sunscreen use.

Retinoids are compared in Retinoid vs. Retinoid — Jan Marini, Skinceuticals, Gernetic 6 Month Programs and Visia Analysis.

Skinceuticals Retinol appears to provide some potential benefits over prescription retinoids, which are frequently poorly tolerated and fail to provide ideal benefit if use is inconsistent.

Benefits of Skinceuticals Retinol over prescription retinol generally pertain to the Supplementary Anti-Inflammatory Properties of Skinceuticals Retinol and the gentler manner in which it becomes useful within skin.

Review the order of application for retinoids.

Generally avoid layering alpha hydroxy acids and retinoids.

For ideal photoprotection, refer to the following sunscreen topics:

Reapplication of sunscreen during the day is often desirable — a sunscreen brush is the easiest way to do this.

Retinol is also of benefit to aging hands.

Do not implement retinoids without first seeking advice as contraindications exist and avoid use in a manner constituting skin care failure.

Loss of Elastic Fibers Causes Skin Wrinkles in Sun-Damaged Human Skin

Although wrinkling is the most obvious sign of aged skin, the detailed pathomechanism of wrinkle development has not been elucidated.

In this study, we investigated the role of elastic fibers in the formation of skin wrinkles.

Loss of elastic fibers was measured quantitatively in the facial skins of subjects representing seven decades, and then compared with wrinkle severities.

We also investigated whether topical retinoic acid treatment to photoaged human skin can restore destroyed elastic fiber, and the correlation between wrinkle improvement with increase in elastic fibers in RA-treated facial skin.

We found a significant correlation between decreases in the length, width, number and total area of oxytalan fibers and wrinkle severity.

Furthermore, we found that topical application of retinoic acid (0.025%) to chronically photodamaged skin regenerated and restored elastic fibers, and that there was a significant positive correlation between the amount of newly regenerated elastic fiber and the wrinkle improvement caused by retinoic acid.

Our results provide an objective insight into the role of elastic fibers in skin wrinkle formation by providing a quantitative correlation between changes in oxytalan fibers and the severity of skin wrinkling.


Loss of elastic fibers causes skin wrinkles in sun-damaged human skin.

Jin Young Lee, Yeon Kyung Kim, Jin Young Seo, Chong Won Choi, Jae Sung Hwang, Byeong Gon Lee, Ih Seop Chang, Jin Ho Chung.

Journal of dermatological science 1 May 2008 (volume 50 issue 2 Pages 99-107 DOI: 10.1016/j.jdermsci.2007.11.010).

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New/Notable 2016

Open Pores — Treatment and Prevention

MD Rx Melbourne Dermatology Open Pores Overnight Solution

The Sun

Radiation

Mexoryl

Pentapeptides Ineffective

Asiaticoside vs. Madecassoside for Collagen Synthesis

La Roche-Posay Redermic

Valeant Pharmaceuticals

Rainbow

Telomerase

Azelaic Acid

Bisabolol

Avena Sativa

Panthenol

Aster Family of Plants

Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis) Extract

Polyphenols

Caffeine

Oxofulleram

Salicylic Acid

Capryloyl Salicylic Acid

Open Pores

Phytosphingosine

Glycerin

Idebenone

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Kojic Acid

Algorithm for Optimal Sustained Exfoliation: Glycolic Acid

Comparison of 33 Sunscreens