Skin Care and Treatments of Melbourne Dermatology - AHA's (I find them drying!)

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AHA's (I find them drying!)

AHA's (I find them drying!)

"AHA's (I find them drying!!)"

While lactic acid is primarily moisturizing, glycolic acid works by drawing moisture up through the epidermis into dead skin cells.

As dead skin cells can't hold moisture, they burst and break away from their healthier, fresher and more flexible counterparts.

Patients with 'dry skin' often don't have genuinely dry skin (a condition medically referred to as xerosis) — they just have a particularly large build up of dead skin cells.

Paradoxically, temporarily dehydrating dry skin with glycolics just that little bit more actually leads to more naturally and durably moist skin.

This is established scientific fact.

Yet many people who try glycolic acid (and other skin resurfacing agents or procedures) abandon treatment too early (often within days of starting). The drought inevitably precedes the spring rain. (See the notes on what to expect during preliminary therapeutic skin care treatment for more information).

  • Glycolic acid isn't so much a dehydrating ingredient as it is an accelerator of the natural process which sees skin shed itself anyway. Its utility is in its pH and molecular size, being able to shift the skin to a temporarily more acidic state and to penetrate layers (such as the epidermis and deeper dermis) where there can be circumstances preventing the development of healthy skin.

Age, hereditary, environmental factors and skin-incompatible product use can stifle this process, allowing dead skin (which can appear flakey, finely wrinkled and rough) to hang around long after its needed.

  • Effective glycolic formulas and regimens (few and far between, and generally not found in department stores and beauty salons) will replace and supplement any moisture losses produced by glycolic acid for a net gain in the functioning, appearance and comfort of the patient's skin.

Jan Marini Bioglycolic Facial Lotion and Night Cream, despite containing 12-20% glycolic acid, also include more than adequate quantities of high grade hyaluronic acid — a substance capable of holding around 1,000 times it weight in water. These two products are often used in conjunction with C-ESTA Serum or Cream, which contain additional high grade hyaluronic acid and glycosaminoglycans.

Jan Marini Bioclear Lotion, Skinceuticals C+AHA, Intense Line Defense and Eye Renewal Gel all contain blends of AHAs which ultimately mitigate any drying potential of glycolic acid.

Citric, malic and tartaric acids combined with glycolic acid act as antioxidants; lactic and hyaluronic acid dramatically increase the water-holding capacity of the skin. These combinations remove dead skin cells while enhancing the environment for and production of healthy cells.

Glycolic acid needs to be considered within the context of the individual formula its found in, or within the context of the protocol of complete treatment employed.

  • For further information, contact reception for our brochure: Not All AHAs Are Created Equal and see the dermatological file on Alpha Hydroxy Facial Treatments.

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