Open Pores — Treatment and Prevention: Melbourne Dermatology Skin Care

Clinical Procedures and Topics

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Open Pores — Treatment and Prevention

"Open pores" are sometimes referred to as a "strawberry nose" however can occur anywhere on the face, back, chest or upper arms. Open pores are pathological rather than a clinical entity. Open pores are medically described as early as 1954.

Visibly open pores are one of the most common areas of concern in cosmetic patients.

Smack bang in the middle of the face, they have naturally high visibility and tend to make the nose appear larger than it actually is, simply by drawing attention to it, or rather to the brown, grey or black dotted-texture it wears when the follicles are filled with excess oxidized wax or sebum.

Clinically, absolutely optimal treatment of open pores varies according to skin type, condition, hormonal characteristics, gender and age, and can cost in excess of a thousand dollars.

Patients however express a desire for a relatively inexpensive quick fix.

While no quick-fix exists, long-term therapeutic azelaic acid use represents the next most appropriate solution not requiring extensive office visits.

Unfortunately and predictably, irrespective of cost, most patients leave effective treatment of open pores for an extended period of time (beyond one year) and will therefore always suffer from them even when (or if) congestion (in the form of blackheads, acne or hardened wax plugs) is addressed because their pores will have become permanently distended (stretched) by having to accommodate retained wastes.

The preferred preventive and ongoing treatment for open pores in all skin types and conditions is azelaic acid, the highest concentration of which (20%) is found in MD Rx Higher Strength Azelaic Acid. The next highest concentration is available in Jan Marini Bioclear Cream and Lotion, albeit at only 1%. No other alternative sources currently (01/08) exist.

Although the cosmetics industry has succeeded in suggesting a whole range of alternatives for visibly open pores (plant extracts, mild scrubs, facials administered by beauticians/aestheticians including dubious "extractions"), as always none of them provide any more than fleeting benefit because they address neither inflammation nor the clumping of cells within follicles which produce the aesthetic problem in the first place.

It's pointless to even try treating open pores without introducing azelaic acid into pores in a manner which lasts the better part of each day because visibly open (distended) pores are representative of a chronic process. Visibly open pores simply do not respond favourably to physical and superficial treatments.

Patients who attempt to squeeze oxidized wax plugs from the pores may feel temporarily gratified by the sight of their own hardened sebum emerging from their nose, but they only succeed in lifting out the tops of plugs which block their pores — the follicular reservoirs will re-fill themselves within a day or less.

Effective resolution of visibly open pores also tends to fail where patients expect an overnight cure, complicate treatment with inappropriate supplementary skin care products (particularly cleansers, moisturisers and sunscreens) or become non-compliant in treatment at any time in the first year after commencement of therapy.

Most patients also disbelieve that open pores are as difficult to treat as severe, treatment-resistant acne, and will tend to (literally) wax and wane in their therapy for that reason, even when proof of their approach's failure is as plain as the clogged nose on their face.

Because time for effective treatment is extremely limited and because even effective treatments are slow, patients often lapse into chronic, futile yet all-knowing attempts to treat their own open pores.

The situation fosters perpetually disappointing self-treatment and the belief that "I just can't clear my open pores" becomes a self-fulfilling prophesy as they become progressively stretched.

Evidence also points to skin aging being mildly accelerated by the chronic presence of wax plugs because they signify an oxidative, free-radical process within the skin.

Patients with visibly open pores often have a highly similar syndrome occurring on their scalps, where it gives rise to an itchy scalp, scalp acne and reversible (at least for a period of time) hair loss.

Open Pores Information and Treatment Notes from 2007

What's the best solution to deal with open pores? Unfortunately there's no wonder cure for open pores, which are generally the result of excess sebum production or sun damage, where the skin loses elasticity around the pore.

Pores can enlarge from excess oil production, build up of dirt and debris, or from the breakdown of the collagen structure in the pore wall as we age.

Blackheads are a result of sebum and dirt blocking the pore.

Pollution and makeup need to be gently and regularly cleansed away for skin to remain clear.

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