• capable of penetrating skin and
• providing photoprotection

for the purposes of both preventing and treating damage which results in permanent losses in:

• firmness and
• overall skin quality (texture, tone and colouring).

Distinct from Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, Phloretin CF contains less firming antioxidant Vitamin C and no antioxidant Vitamin E (as alpha tocopherol), however includes phloretin — an antioxidant bioflavonoid and hormone — possessing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-glycogen and sebum-regulating properties.

Although the combination of active ingredients in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF is new, third-party claims that phloretin is newly identified or immediately superior are as accurate and useful as those pumped out by the mass media and beauty therapy when Vitamin C first "emerged" a decade ago.

The study and use of both pre-date most of our birth dates, if not our fashions.

If you've been over-stimulated by advertising and daft skin clinic hype before, recall that jumping on seasonal ingredient bandwagons is a great way to secure skin care failure before you embark on changing your skin care once again.

Skinceuticals, Phloretin and Bioflavonoids

In recent times, bioflavonoids have been unavailable in Skinceuticals Vitamin C Serums (excepting C+AHA) but always present in those produced by IS Clinical, Jan Marini and Cellex-C among others.

Bioflavonoids were formerly regarded as vitamins in French skin care, where they are still sometimes referenced as "Vitamin P", "PP" or "citrin", and are primarily derived from citrus fruits.

Skinceuticals have named their bioflavonoid specifically (phloretin), while IS Clinical, Cellex-C and Jan Marini do not publicly disclose theirs, and may in fact use combinations of bioflavonoids.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF and Limiting Elastase Activity

While bioflavonoids are not essential to skin functioning, phloretin has been shown to inhibit up to 80% of the skin's own paradoxically deleterious enzyme, elastase.

Elastase breaks down elastin, an elastic fibre whose levels (together with collagen) determine the mechanical properties of facial connective tissue, producing skin which is more or less:

• bouncy, dense and full or
• tired, flat and thinned-out.

The unwanted effects of elastase are especially noticeable around the eyes and neck, where near-total reduction in its activity would be highly desirable.

Amino acids contained within GERnétic Anti-Radical Eye Gel are marketed as "preventing elastase enzyme activity" and were previously available as a very generous set of 6 tubes (3 for day, 3 for night).

Although detailed information regarding their composition and action is unavailable and the original formulas abandoned in place of a single gel, the original product had been used on the neck (as well as around the eyes) with good effect.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Vitamin C Content — Skin Firming and Acne

The concentration of Vitamin C available in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF is only 10% L-Ascorbic Acid, which is minimally firming when compared with 15%, 17.5% and 20% formulations, although the reduced concentration may be beneficial for those prone to acne and sensitivity, albeit only outside of ideal complementing skin care factors.

The propensity for Vitamin C (as ascorbic acid) to stimulate acne appeared to be reduced with the addition of ferulic acid to the original higher concentration vitamin C serums (Serum 15, Serum 20).

The minimized Vitamin C concentration in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF combined with ferulic acid and phloretin, known to be effective against acne, should further reduce the likelihood of acne in comparison with Skinceuticals Serum 10 and 10 AOX+, 15 and 15 AOX+, 20 and 20 AOX+, C E Ferulic, IS Clinical and Cellex-C Vitamin C Serums.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF may provide more benefit than Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, particularly if you have predominantly oily skin and hyperpigmentation, however individual assessment and follow-up are essential in determining suitability.

Inappropriate use may produce lipid-dry skin.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF, Botox and other Injectable Cosmetics

If you are using Emla (or similar) prior to your procedure, cease using Skinceuticals Phloretin CF two days prior.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Further Information and Basic Comparisons

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains denatured alcohol, as per the superseded Skinceuticals C + E formula and IS Clinical Vitamin C Serums.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains Vitamin C as ascorbic acid and not ascorbyl palmitate, as available in Jan Marini C-ESTA.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains preservatives, absent from Cellex-C Vitamin C Formulas.

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic/Phloretin CF comparison charts are available from reception.

Phloretin Further Information

Skin Care Ingredients — Phloretin.

Mature Skin Analysis: Firmness and Elasticity of Healthy vs. Unhealthy Mature Skin.

Bioflavonoids.

Skin care products containing bioflavonoids.

Collagen.

Elastin.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF Marketing Blurb

"Skinceuticals Phloretin CF™ represents a new class of preventive and corrective topical antioxidant treatment.

The result — a strengthened support structure on the inside and a more youthful, firm, radiant appearance on the outside."

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