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acid acne against aging although amount anti antioxidant antioxidants ascorbic available before bioflavonoids breakthrough broad care cell claimed collagen combination concentration containing contains damage effects elastase elasticity elastin erythema essential every existing ferulic firming free further healthy however http human images individuals induced inflammatory ingredients irradiation less mixture neck normal noshade oily oreal original oxidative oxygen patent pending penetrating penetration phloretin photodamage photoprotection pinnell place press prevent product production products prone properties provide radicals range reactions reactive release research results review serum serums shown size skin skincare skinceuticals skinÕs spectrum stimulating study topical treatment truth types using vitamin wrinkles Êmed

• deeply penetrating skin;
• providing photoprotection;
• stimulating collagen production/protecting against collagen breakdown;
• stimulating elastin production/protecting elastin from breakdown;

for the purposes of both preventing and reducing the symptoms of photodamage which results in permanent losses in:

• skin firmness and
• overall skin quality (texture, tone and colouring).

Distinct from Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains less firming antioxidant Vitamin C and no antioxidant Vitamin E (as alpha tocopherol), however includes phloretin — an antioxidant bioflavonoid and hormone — possessing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-glycogen and sebum-regulating properties.

Although Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains 5% less Vitamin C than Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains SD alcohol and is oil-free. Phloretin itself is also claimed to be a penetration-enhancer. These factors contribute to greater skin penetration, therefore the amount of Vitamin C delivered to the skin in both formulas is likely very similar.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF is an alternative to Skinceuticals C E Ferulic for individuals with combination to oily skin and has been shown to provide identical photoprotection to Skinceuticals C E Ferulic.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF appears to have the benefit of stimulating elastin production, which Skinceuticals C E Ferulic does not.

Obagi Professional-C Serums are claimed to be more stable and deeper-penetrating for enhanced antioxidant protection, particularly against UVA, when compared with the deepest penetrating Skinceuticals Serum, Skinceuticals Serum 20 AOX+. Individual results vary.

Please note: Skinceuticals is available for online order by customers in the United States only. This product ships from the United States. Australian patients can re-order select Skinceuticals products for delivery within Australia in accordance with their prescription by logging in.

• Prevents premature signs of aging and corrects existing photodamage.
• Divides and conquers the range of reactive oxygen species (ROS) throughout the skin;
• Prevents cell mutation by shielding skin’s DNA;
• Accelerates cell turnover;
• Boosts skin’s support structure;
• Inhibits UV-induced discolorations.

As is usually the case, this product has not been tested independently and there is little reported experience in its use.

However the ingredients are thought to be functional antioxidants and this product most likely is better than the majority of products purporting genuinely useful antioxidant effects.

The formula was reported on in Protective Effects of a Topical Antioxidant Mixture Containing Vitamin C, Ferulic Acid and Phloretin Against Ultraviolet-Induced Photodamage in Human Skin.

This antioxidant is not suitable for all skin types and conditions so please check suitability with a bonafide professional before and during use.

However, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF has been shown to prevent elastase and enhance elastin production, while Skinceuticals C E Ferulic has not.

Distinct from Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains less firming antioxidant Vitamin C and no antioxidant Vitamin E (as alpha tocopherol), however includes phloretin — an antioxidant bioflavonoid and hormone — possessing anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-glycogen and sebum-regulating properties.

Although Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains 5% less Vitamin C than Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, Skinceuticals Phloretin CF contains SD alcohol and is oil-free.

Phloretin itself is also claimed to be a penetration-enhancer.

These factors contribute to greater skin penetration, therefore the amount of Vitamin C delivered to the skin in both formulas is likely very similar.

If you can make this alteration, you'll see enhanced results from Skinceuticals A.G.E. Eye Complex.

Bioflavonoids were formerly regarded as vitamins — in French skin care they are still sometimes referenced as "Vitamin P", "PP" or "citrin", and are primarily derived from citrus fruits.

Skinceuticals have named their bioflavonoid specifically (phloretin), while IS Clinical, Jan Marini and Cellex-C do not publicly disclose theirs, and may in fact use combinations of bioflavonoids.

Elastase breaks down elastin, an elastic fiber whose levels (together with collagen) determine the mechanical properties of facial connective tissue, producing skin which is more or less:

• bouncy, dense and full or
• tired, flat and thinned-out.

The unwanted effects of elastase are especially noticeable around the eyes and neck, where near-total reduction in its activity would be highly desirable.

Amino acids contained within GERnétic Anti-Radical Eye Gel are marketed as "preventing elastase enzyme activity" and were previously available as a very generous set of 6 tubes (3 for day, 3 for night).

Although detailed information regarding their composition and action is unavailable and the original formulas abandoned in place of a single gel, the original product had been used on the neck (as well as around the eyes) with good effect.

Chantal Ethocyn, Prevage MD and Elastiderm (by Obagi Medical) are also marketed as capable of protecting and regenerating elastin.

The propensity for Vitamin C (as ascorbic acid) to stimulate acne appeared to be reduced with the addition of ferulic acid to the original higher concentration vitamin C serums (Serum 15, Serum 20).

The minimized Vitamin C concentration in Skinceuticals Phloretin CF combined with ferulic acid and phloretin, known to be effective against acne, should further reduce the likelihood of acne in comparison with Skinceuticals Serum 10 and 10 AOX+, 15 and 15 AOX+, 20 and 20 AOX+, C E Ferulic, IS Clinical and Cellex-C Vitamin C Serums.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF may provide more benefit than Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, particularly if you have predominantly oily skin and hyperpigmentation, however individual assessment and follow-up are essential in determining suitability.

Inappropriate use may produce lipid-dry skin.

Aqua/Water, Dipropylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., Ascorbic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Triethyl Citrate, Phloretin, Ferulic Acid.

Follow with SkinCeuticals Hydrating B5 Gel and a SkinCeuticals moisturizer and SkinCeuticals Sunscreen.

For the last six weeks I have dabbed a little every day on the creases between my eyes. I thought I'd given it a pretty easy job because these wrinkles are comparatively new and tiny. Six weeks later, not one whit of difference. If anything, I found it extremely drying and dulling.

Can you please clarify whether or not I should bother using Skinceuticals Phloretin CF?

The review you mention, as per the Skinceuticals Retinol review at Truth In Aging, is a good example of poor advice leading people astray, increasing the likelihood of futile and incorrect treatment.

For the most part, and as they are most typically used, antioxidants are a long-term daily-use proposition to assist in preventing photodamage.

As antioxidants are not capable of treating pre-existing wrinkles, a different entity to photodamage prevention, the 6-week "reviewed and rejected" assessment made on Skinceuticals Phloretin CF's ability to treat wrinkles is invalid.

Skinceuticals Phloretin CF is intended for combination skin and may cause skin irritation in individuals with sensitive skin and additional dryness in individuals with dry skin.

Skinceuticals C E Ferulic is more suitable for dry skin.

It is not claimed to be an inherently superior alternative to Skinceuticals C E Ferulic as the review states ("Five years in the making, Phloretin CF is supposed to take CE Ferulic to new antioxidant heights").

Samples of products containing Vitamin C are also prone to heavy oxidation which affects efficacy.

Lastly, 6 weeks isn't long enough to judge the effects of any skin care — 6 months is a more telling, minimal period of time.

The document A Year of Photoprotection — Results from Topical Vitamin C (as Ascorbic Acid) and Sunscreen Use can give you a better idea of what you can realistically expect from long-term use of a ascorbic acid serum such as Skinceuticals Phloretin CF when combined with sunscreen.

You may also like to refer to the Skinceuticals C E Ferulic Dermatological Evaluation of Tolerance and Efficacy and Evaluation of Effects on Special Molecular Biomarkers of Oxidative Stress in Skin of Healthy Subjects After UVA 1 Irradiation.

We propose that antioxidant mixture will complement and synergize with sunscreens in providing photoprotection for human skin.

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation of the skin leads to acute inflammatory reactions, such as erythema, sunburn, and chronic reactions, including premature skin aging and skin cancer.

In this study, the effects of a topical antioxidant mixture consisting of vitamin C, ferulic acid, and phloretin on attenuating the harmful effects of UV irradiation on normal healthy volunteers were studied using biomarkers of skin damage.

Ten subjects (age, 18—60 years; Fitzpatrick skin types II and III) were randomized and treated with antioxidant product or vehicle control on the lower back for four consecutive days. On day 3, the minimal erythema dose (MED) was determined for each subject at a different site on the back. On day 4, the two test sites received solar-simulated UV irradiation 1—5? MED at 1? MED intervals. On day 5, digital images were taken, and 4-mm punch biopsies were collected from the two 5? MED test sites and a control site from each subject for morphology and immunohistochemical studies.

UV irradiation significantly increased the erythema of human skin in a linear manner from 1? to 5? MED. As early as 24 h after exposure to 5? MEDs of UV irradiation, there were significant increases in sunburn cell formation, thymine dimer formation, matrix metalloproteinase-9 expression, and p53 protein expression. All these changes were attenuated by the antioxidant composition. UV irradiation also suppressed the amount of CD1a-expressing Langerhans cells, indicating immunosuppressive effects of a single 5? MED dose of UV irradiation. Pretreatment of skin with the antioxidant composition blocked this effect.

Christian Oresajo, PhD 1 , Thomas Stephens, PhD 3 , Peter D Hino, MD 4 , Robert M Law, MD 5 , Margarita Yatskayer, MS 1 , Peter Foltis, MS 1 , Sreekumar Pillai, PhD 1 , & Sheldon R Pinnell, MD 2

1 L'Oreal USA, Clark, NJ

2 Duke University Medical Center, Durham, NC

3 Thomas J. Stephens & Associates, Inc., Dallas Research Center, Carrollton, TX

4 Presbyterian Medical Center, Dallas, TX

5 ProPath Services, Dallas, TX

Correspondence: Christian Oresajo, PhD, L'Oreal USA, 30 L'Oreal Way, Clark, NJ 07066. E-mail: coresajo@rd.us.loreal.com

Conflict of Interest. Dr. Sheldon Pinnell is a consultant for SkinCeuticals/L'Oreal. Drs. Thomas Stephens, Peter Hino, and Robert Law are independent contractors for the study. The other authors are employees of L'Oreal USA, who is the sponsor of the study.

KEYWORDS

antioxidant • ferulic acid • Langerhans cells • MED • MMP-9 • p53 • photodamage • phloretin • sunburn cells • thymine dimer • UV protection • vitamin C