Ultraviolet radiation damage to the skin is due, in part, to the generation of reactive oxygen species (free radicals).
Vitamin C (l-ascorbic acid) functions as a biological co-factor and antioxidant due to its reducing properties. Topical application of vitamin C has been shown to elevate significantly cutaneous levels of this vitamin in skin, and this correlates with protection of the skin from UV damage as measured by erythema and sunburn cell formation.
This protection is biological and due to the reducing properties of the molecule.
Further, vitamin C levels of the skin can be severely depleted after UV irradiation, which lower the skin's innate protective mechanism as well as leaving it at risk of impaired healing after photoinduced damage.
In addition, vitamin C protects skin from UVA-mediated phototoxic reactions (PUVA) and therefore shows promise as a broad-spectrum photoprotectant.
Effective ascorbic acid photoprotective agents include Skinceuticals C E Ferulic, other Skinceuticals Antioxidants such as Serum 15 AOX+ from the revised AOX+ collection and related products from IS Clinical.
Ectoin is also effective against the skin registering sun damage and may be used in association with ascorbic acid serums.
Reference: Farris Patricia K., MD. (2005) Topical Vitamin C: A Useful Agent for Treating Photoaging and Other Dermatologic Conditions. Dermatologic Surgery 31:s1, 814-818.
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