Sunscreens
The sun's light comprises forms (wavelengths) of radiation which are known to be aging and carcinogenic.
Ninety percent of outwardly visible skin aging and skin cancer is due to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and can be prevented or delayed through lifestyle changes encompassing diet and genuinely therapeutic skin care use, however some contributory factors are inherited and cannot be avoided through personal action.
A small selection of sunscreen ingredients and formulations can provide up to 40% protection against the signs of photoaging, namely:
Many sunscreens, indeed the majority, such as those made by Hamilton Laboratories, provide protection which verges on being purely purported, irrespective of how they are actually applied.
Even where a sunscreen has the potential for real benefit, recent studies point out that in actual usage individuals apply only 20-25% the amount used to determine SPF values and that overt and subclinical allergic reactions to unencapsulated chemical sunscreens are common.
This means the SPF 30 you use, even if worthwhile as it sits in its container, most likely provides an SPF of only 4-8 as it sits on your skin.
In light of the amount required to reach anything resembling therapeutic photoprotection, makeup products such as foundations and powders formulated with SPF are a crutch you may as well kick to the side.
It is beyond doubt that until such time that patients use 5 mL of the right sunscreen ingredients each and every day, irrespective of cloud coverage, and do so without break for periods in excess of one year, they will never realize any durable or permanent desirable changes in their skin and remain in the futile crux of manufactured desires, disingenuous beauty therapy recommendations and the inefficiency of insidious department store methods.
Attempts to meaningfully and therapeutically improve the skin as an organ without suitable sunscreens are so entirely abortive that Melbourne Dermatology withholds finer cosmetic treatment of any sort until such time that it has proof that a patient is implementing suitable sunscreens as actual, not purported, prophylaxis.
Despite their value, it is important to be realistic and realise that even the best sunscreens available only protect against 55% of free radicals generated in skin by ultraviolet irradiation.
Such, the anti-aging potential of sunscreens alone, while proven, well understood and clinically studied, remains largely inadequate against preventing outwardly visible aging.
Up to 90% protection against photoaging may be achieved by a similarly uncompromising, individualised and medical tailored approach encompassing topical primary antioxidants, retinoids, dietary and lifestyle factors with equal aplomb.
The photographic monograph Melbourne Dermatology: A Year of Photoprotection, provides evidence of the nature of improvement possible with the right approach.
Do not use waterproof or water-resistant physical sunscreens — such as Skinceuticals Water Resistant Sport UV Defense SPF 45, ZinClear or Australian Cancer Council "Classic" and "Natural" — on a daily basis unless you actually require their water-resistance to avoid deteriorating your skin aesthetically and functionally.
Documents for the Sunscreen Aficionado