Lately there has been increased concern that the particles of sunscreens containing micronized zinc oxide ("invisible zinc") penetrate skin, cause free radical damage to cells and lead to alteration of skin's DNA.
Sunscreens containing micronized zinc have been generally preferred over others because they block the greatest gamut of ultraviolet, are less likely to irritate skin, less prone to wearing away during the day, and are markedly less whitening than traditional zinc sunscreens.
The concern that microfine zinc sunscreens could do more harm than good was raised more than a decade ago.
Subsequent studies have shown that micronized zinc can pass through the skin in areas affected by acne, sunburn, eczema or shaving.
Studies have shown that micronized zinc exposed to ultraviolet produces free radical damage.
In light of the growing evidence that micronized zinc may be harmful, and because nanoparticles in sunscreens are not regulated, caution should be exercised when using ultrafine zinc sunscreens.
Studies have shown that micronized zinc coated in dimethicone, a form of silicone used as a primary ingredient in many moisturizers, forms a barrier to help prevent zinc from penetrating skin or reacting with light in ways which can be harmful.
Dimethicone-coated microfine zinc is a proprietary substance more expensive than uncoated zinc and is therefore not available in all sunscreens.
It is also usually unsuitable for application to large areas due to cost.
For daily face, neck, ear and hand protection against photodamage (skin cancer, wrinkles, dark blotches/hyperpigmentation, freckles, leathery skin texture, yellowed colouring and a loss of elasticity), micronized dimethicone zinc sunscreens nevertheless remain the most efficacious.
Recommended Ultrafine Zinc Sunscreens
Contain dimethicone-coated and micronized rather than nanoparticle zinc at a concentration of 8% or higher and are suitable for daily use on the face, neck, hands and ears:
Note: SPF regulation and numbers differ by region. US SPF figures are quoted.
Supplementary Sun Protection
Dietary, supplementary and topically applied antioxidants such as lutein, green tea, zeatin, Heliocare and chlorogenic acid can enhance the protection offered by sunscreens, however should not be used in place of sunscreens.